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Friday, January 09, 2004

Battambang

Took the boat down from Siem Riep to Battambang. First of all you cross the western end of Tonle Sap (the largest freshwater lake in SEA) and then head up another Apocalypse now kind of river. The boat itself was a sizeable hydrofoil, looking out of place among all the tiny fishing boats. This being lawless Cambodia, you are allowed to sit on the roof as the boat gets up to its top speed. This would definitely be forbidden in all other countries as the things belt around the place and one false move and you would definitely be fish food. Yes, naturally I was up on top. The river to Battambang is amazing - tiny floating fishing villages and people who are genuinely surprised to see westerners. After a while your arm starts to hurt, because EVERY child under 10 will wave and scream "Hello" at you. It really is another world watching groups of little kids, some as young as 4 or 5 just splashing around with their buddies in the water. Poor is not the word, but damn do they look happy. I am sure it would be every western mother's nightmare to see her toddler in a river, but these kids are genuinely left to their own devices, not a parent in sight. And you know what? I have heard a sum total of 2 kids crying in Asia. I really get the feeling that when kids are made as independent as possible at a young age that they will learn to help themselves rather than put their hands in the air, start bawling and cry "Mama".

Battambang wasn't that exciting and I spent the evening with Mike the Vike on the roof of the Hotel downing many an Angkor beer (See upcoming World beer review for details) and discussing the meaning of life.